General News
12 August, 2026
Honouring Kokoda heroes
THE Kokoda Trail or Track, in Papua New Guinea, recently became the destination for a number of Douglas Shire locals, all with their own personal reasons to take on the physical challenge and to explore a location that holds so many stories.
The Kokoda Trail is a single-file foot thoroughfare that runs 96 kilometres, through the Owen Stanley Range in PNG. The track is the most famous in PNG and is renowned as the location of the World War II battle between Japanese and Australian forces in 1942.
The track starts and ends at Owers Corner in Central Province, 50 kilometres east of Port Moresby and then crosses rugged and isolated terrain, which is only passable on foot, to the village of Kokoda in Oro Province. It reaches a height of 2190 metres as it passes around the peak of Mount Bellamy.
All of this may well sound idyllic and, while the location is indeed beautiful in many ways, hot and humid days with intensely cold nights, torrential rainfall and the risk of endemic tropical diseases, such as malaria, make it a challenge to walk.
Despite the challenge posed, it is a popular hike that takes between four and 12 days.
Historic walk
From a history point of view, after the fall of Singapore in February 1942, the focus of the Pacific War moved closer to Australia. Japanese forces bombed Darwin and launched an attack over Papua’s Owen Stanley Ranges with a view to capturing Port Moresby.
A desperate and vicious seven-month campaign followed with more than 600 Australian soldiers killed and 1000 wounded. It is estimated that 900 Japanese soldiers died. The campaign was a crucial point in stopping the Japanese advance across the Pacific and towards Australia.
Out of the five locals that ventured north, Sheree Kemp is actually a guide and regularly attends the Kokoda Trail to help others experience the unique adventure.
“Apart from the physical challenges and the history of Kokoda, I am, as a leader passionate about the country, the culture and the local crew who are my friends,” Ms Kemp said.
“The whole adventure is incredible as we walk in the footsteps of the 39th and 53rd battalions and so many others, these being our militia and, in many cases, untrained soldiers”.
First experience
For local Karen Nance, this was her first experience at Kokoda.
“Walking the Kokoda Track was one the best experiences of my life. Every step carried the weight of history, stories of courage, sacrifice and resilience that stay with you long after you leave the jungle behind,” Ms Nance said.
“Being out there gives you a whole new appreciation for what happened on that trail and the strength of those who walked it before us.”
Ms Nance said what made the journey even more powerful were the moments in between the friendships, the laughter, the singing that echoed through the valleys and the breathtaking scenery that reminded everyone us how special this place truly was.
“Kokoda is humbling, breathtaking and deeply meaningful in ways that are hard to put into words. It fills your heart in ways you don’t expect. I’m grateful for every magical and unforgettable moment,” she said.
“I had always wanted to complete the Kokoda Track in memory of my Pa. He served in New Guinea during the World War II and Walking Kokoda felt like the closest I could come to understanding even a small part of what he and all the soldiers beside him lived through.
“Each step became a way of honouring him: his service and his resilience. Completing Kokoda was a promise I made to myself, a way of standing in the landscape that shaped his story and I carried his memory with me through every rise and ridge.”
Extensive training
None of this is possible without prior training and for Ms Nance that meant every day.
“I went to the gym and I hit the local trails regularly including Flagstaff Hill, the Bump Track and other steep climbs. Living in FNQ gave me no shortage of options. I completed hikes like Bartle Frere, Wharton’s Lookout and Carrington Falls and Walsh’s Pyramid. Over the past 12 months, I also completed several hikes overseas while travelling” she said.
“We were fortunate to have a dry track and I was very aware of how different and more difficult it would have been in wet conditions, with mud, slippery descents and every step requiring extra care. Throughout the trek, I carried a real appreciation for how much the weather shaped our experience.”
In terms of the PNG locals Ms Nance said “our porters were extraordinary, patient, skilled and kind. They looked after us so well and their generosity shaped the entire journey. I left feeling genuinely connected to them and to the land they call home”.
“I already find myself wanting to go back, to visit the boys in their village and to spend more time in a place that felt both humbling and unforgettable,” she said.
For local Katie Barnett, the Kokoda Trail was equally exhilarating.
“I absolutely love hiking, especially long multi-day hikes and camping. There’s nothing better than getting away from daily life and into nature, phone off and walking every day puts me into my happiest place,” she said.
“I actually didn’t go for the history, like most people do, but I did really enjoy learning about it before I went by reading books and learning more along the journey.”
Lucky to have a dry journey
Ms Barnett felt the group were lucky with a dry track.
“I don’t think people get that very often, so I would say for that reason it was much easier than expected. The whole way across, however, I was thinking how much more challenging it would be in the wet, you’d be slipping and sliding everywhere and it would be far more draining trying to keep your balance with every step,” she said.
“Our crew of local porters, carriers and cooks were unbelievable and did everything they could to make sure our trip ran smoothly and we got across the track with everything we needed.”
Ms Barnett is more than ready to do it again.
“On our last day all I wanted to do was turn around and walk straight back again for another eight days, I didn’t want it to end.”
“The people on this trip are a huge part of what made it so unforgettable for me. We had a crew of 16 local porters, carriers and cooks that became our friends along the way. We got to learn about their culture and what life is like in their village called Buna out on the coast.” Ms Barnett said.
Another Douglas local inspired by the trail was Jules Trezise. “The experience was simply amazing and hard to comprehend what the soldiers and people of PNG went through during the wartime and the appalling conditions they faced,” she said.
A mental challenge
“We were fortunate to have a dry track, just some light rain a couple of nights and some mud here and there. Foot placement is the priority on the track due to rocks, tree roots and predominately being single file with cliff edges. The beauty and greenery of never-ending mountains help you get through the harshness of the track. At times it is a mental challenge just as much as physical.”
“I had always wanted to do the track due to my Pop James Anderson having served in PNG on the track and later being detached to Milne Bay in PNG to improve base facilities. He was part of the 21st Pioneer 6th battalion having already served through North Africa and the Middle East and in the Toobruk siege.”
“He was referred to as Ore of the ‘Rats of Toobruk’ (like rates crawling in the mud in the trenches). He also served in Borneo. Id always loved history growing up and I’d sit and listen to my Pop, in particular I recall him telling me about the brutality of the Japanese soldiers in Kokoda and affectionately about the Fuzzy Wuzzy Angels on the track and how they helped them tirelessly.”
“They’re sacrifices for Australia and our future were huge. I’m completely in awe, the track brings me a little closer to trying to comprehend what they did for us. We were blessed to have Sheree as our trek leader tell us so much history with such passion. Our dusk service at the Brigade Hill moved us all to tears with the Buna boys singing their national anthem.”
Well, I have to say, these amazing locals have all inspired me and I have no doubt they will be back in the future for more challenges.
Right now, I’m off to check out a little more on the history of Kokoda, so for now it’s Gazza signing out.
Send your stories to gazza@cairnslocalnews.com.au
